Stuart Ord
About the Image(s)
How I took it
It’s been a cold January here by and large, so I went houseplant shooting this month. This is a tiny flower, set against a home-made background. This was an A4 sheets of photo paper onto which I’d printed a multi-colour “doodle” using Affinity’s paint brush. I then moved it around until I got a background that I liked.
Hardware and software
Olympus OM-D E-M1ii, 0.4 sec at f22, ISO 400, 60mm Olympus macro lens, remote shutter release, Benro tripod and 3-way gear drive head, Velbon macro rail. Magnification ratio 1:1. Processed in Affinity. The main change was to clone out some highlights and add a little clarity.
11 comments posted
It's simply lovely. Your background complements the flower. I especially like the lighting on the stem and lower part of the flower. It appears to be lit within. Very nice.   Posted: 02/09/2021 19:43:45
(Group 98)
  Posted: 02/15/2021 18:20:29
I'm wondering if I'm misunderstanding you. The dioptre adjustment in our viewfinders is just for helping people who need eyesight correction to see the viewfinder sharply without their specs on. I fall into this category, but I haven't adjusted the setting since unboxing the camera, there should be no need to unless my eyesight is changing.
The far edge of the flower is a little out of focus, but I'd intended that to distinguish it from the front edge and to give a little feeling of depth. The front edge might not be pin sharp; I'm not a good judge I'm finding of distinguishing between what is an unsharp image of a perfectly sharp edge, and what is an inherently "blurry" edge. Tom and I have been debating this recently on our Bulletin Board, as the problem seems to get worse as the magnification increases. Many objects up very close seem to have edges which are diffuse in some way, and natural edges like this seem particularly prone to being this way. If the edge is that way, then the best camera in the world won't change that perception. I've been looking at the many other images I made in that shoot, and they all look similar in this respect. So I don't think it's camera shake, or a stacking fault (as none were stacked!) which sometimes reduces maximum sharpness, I do think it's the nature of the petal surface. If anyone has a different perception, I'd love to hear as I'm often looking at my gear and asking "did you cause that, or did I?"
  Posted: 02/16/2021 03:16:42
First, I didn't want all the flower to be sharp,I wanted the far edge to be a little soft to give a sense of depth,so I didn't stack, although selective stacking can control the DoF to what you want, of course. A single shot at f22 seemed to achieve this. The classic argument is that f22 suffers from diffraction, but we've seen your lens at f32 works well without much sign of diffraction, so whether it's a contributor to softness here, I'm not sure. Maybe I should have stacked a few over the front edge at f8 or f11.
Secondly, your Topaz AI result is perceptively much sharper in places than mine, particularly in the body of the petal as you point out. Did you just do this from a screen shot? Software these days is becoming both excellent and offering too many options! I've just been messing with Franzis Sharpen Projects Prof 3 this evening, and coming to the conclusion that it can't beat Affinity (using clarity in the Develop persona and unsharp mask in Photo persona), although it seems to introduce less noise sometimes). But Topax clearly beat Affinity here. I trialled Topaz some time ago and came to the conclusion it wasn't any better, but maybe I was wrong.   Posted: 02/20/2021 16:56:42
With this image, since you were looking for the sharpness along the front edge, you might have been better of cropping a lot of the flower away to focus our attention on it. Here's a deep crop with clarity, unsharp mask, and denoise in Affinity.   Posted: 02/20/2021 17:23:41